By the turn of the nineteenth century,
the fashion for women (and in particular for ladies of the gentry and
aristocracy) had become settled upon the robe en chemise,
which later came to be known as the 'Empire' gown. High-waisted
muslin, cambric or calico dresses, in white, natural or pastel shades
and worn with heelless slippers, became synonymous with the Regency
era. The whole effect was for a simple, classical elegance and ‒
especially when dampened by the daring ‒ the sheer fabric clung
with the form-draping folds demonstrated by Greek statuary. The
Merveilleuses,
female equivalents of French counter-revolutionaries the Incroyables,
employed an extreme style of dress which may have led to the
suggestion, either real or not, of such wanton behaviour among the
beau monde.
However,
while being comfortable for the wearer in warm weather, the flimsier
versions of these gowns, which tended to be of French influence, did
little to hold off winter's chill. Stockings, in white or pink silk
or cotton, were worn to offset the effects of a whistling wind, for
pantalettes ‒ loose-fitting drawers of muslin, silk or cotton with
frills at the base of each leg ‒ were not introduced until about
1804. Princess Charlotte, daughter of the Prince Regent, helped to
popularize their usage as she was said to wear them in 1811, while
the Duchess of Bedford had hers trimmed with Brussels lace.
Pantalettes fastened below the knee with either ribbons or buttons
and had no gusset. Draughty! There were even long-legged styles ‒
including feet ‒ for cold weather, as well as elastic India cotton
for hunting and Opera or woollen stockinette for increased riding
comfort.
The
prevailing fashion did not receive universal approval. Indeed, in
March 1803, it was criticized in the Ladies
Monthly Magazine.
"...a
party of high-bred young ladies, who were dressed or rather undressed
in all the nakedness of the mode..." "...had they been
placed on pedestals or niched in recesses, they might have passed for
so many statues very lightly shaded with drapery... as much a hazard
of health as it was trespass against modesty..."
So,
to protect themselves and their modesty, ladies accessorized their
ensembles with a variety of decorative and practical garments. for
day and evening wear, a fichu (a triangular piece of muslin, lace or
similar) or a tucker (linen, cotton or lace) could be worn around the
neck to cover or disguise a low décolletage. A 'bosom friend' was
another such item, being similar to a tippet. Scarves and shawls were
extremely popular, especially, it would seem, with the Empress
Josephine, wife of Napoleon. It is said she collected almost four
hundred shawls, with each one priced in the region of 15-20,000
francs. Jane Austen, who was a deft needlewoman, stitched her own
elegant adornments, including one of white muslin worked with satin
stitch, dated about 1800. Norwich silk, cashmere and Paisley shawls
were all popular with the beau
monde and
were produced in luxurious patterns and colours. The weavers of
Norwich, Paisley and Edinburgh also copied the Kashmir wares with
soft, British sheep's wool, originally with a small, simple pine cone
design and later with larger, more complicated patterns. It became
something of an art to drape a shawl in order to reflect good taste,
or add a touch of sensuality or luxury to a simple gown. French
mesdames,
such as Madame Gardel in Paris, performed shawl dances and offered
instruction in the graceful arts of such fashionable drapery.
For
outdoors, a lady could choose from a fur tippet (a small cape or
collar which had long ends dangling at the front), a Spencer, a
pelisse, a redingote, a cape or a cloak. The Spencer was a
long-sleeved jacket with a short waist which made its first
appearance in the 1790s. It is purported to have been named for the
2nd Earl Spencer, George John Spencer, who supposedly was the first
to wear one. Spencers were made from such fabrics as kerseymere,
velvet, wool, silk and satin, sometimes with high, frilly collars and
sometimes without a collar at all.
At
the beginning of the nineteenth century, the pelisse was a cross
between a coat and a cloak or tunic, with armholes or, more usually,
long sleeves and a raised waist. Later it became a full-length,
elegant garment with an Empire line style and fastened across the
chest or all the way down the front. Made from velvet, wool, brocade,
kerseymere or similar thick cloth for colder weather and lighter
fabrics for summer wear, it was often trimmed to match a dress,
frequently with sable, ermine or chinchilla. Collars varied in height
and width, while sleeves were long, often reaching over the hand, and
either trimmed at the shoulder with fur, gathered or puffed.
A
redingote was a double-breasted type of overcoat similar to that worn
by gentlemen and sometimes cut away at the front. It usually had a
wide, flat collar. Cloaks, mantles and capes were generally made from
warm materials such as wool, velvet or fur and were often trimmed or
lined with fur as well. They fastened at the neck.
Hats,
gloves, muffs and parasols
When indoors, most
married ladies and spinsters of more mature years wore a cap to show
their respectability and status. Jane Austen herself was given to
wearing a cap, because, as she wrote: '...they save me a world of
torment as to hairdressing.' Caps were made from satin, muslin and
lace, in a variety of styles, trimmed with ribbon and often fastened
under the chin. The Mameluke cap was described in 1799 by Jane Austen
as being 'all the fashion now'. It was an Oriental-style turban with
a feather in the brim. Many articles were created and worn to salute
Britain's great naval commander and the Nelson cap, fashioned in
Coquelicot velvet, was just one of them.
I hope you find this useful, all you established and budding Regency writers. Sorry there are no pictures. I will update this post when I can access my scanner again!
Best wishes, Heather
A hat was the
essential item to complete a Regency lady's toilette. Many
ladies bought plain hats and trimmed them to their own taste,
practising economy where it was needful by changing the decoration
for different outfits. Such embellishments included ribbons,
feathers, flowers, fruit and braid.
Bonnets were
made from straw, wood chip (such as willow), leghorn (a type of
Italian wheat straw), velvet, tulle, silk, muslin or sarsenet and
were habitually designed to match a certain gown or pelisse. They
ranged from wide-brimmed sun hats to elegant day wear; from high
crowns and neat peaks to the projecting brims of poke bonnets; and
from military-style Shako hats ‒ which completed fashionable riding
habits at the time of the Napoleonic wars ‒ to elegant turbans and
headdresses for the evening. These latter, with the advent of shorter
hairstyles, were sometimes no more than a bandeau or fillet to set
off a head of cropped curls. A spray of ostrich feathers or a hood,
similar to the modern snood, was introduced around 1800 to represent
the caul of Grecian origin. Veils were fashionable and could be added
to or removed from a hat as required. A pale complexion was, after
all, considered entirely necessary in the lady of fashion.
Gloves were
originally supplied by a glove maker and made from leather, but once
such fabrics as cotton, silk, kid and wool began to be used, they
were also produced by milliners. Chicken skin was believed to make
hands white and smooth; kid gloves were popularly adorned in the late
eighteenth century with hand painted scenes or printed patterns.
Gloves were considered essential for both day and evening
engagements. Colours were chosen to complement an outfit, white being
at the top of the list, although neutral and pastel shades such as
stone, buff, lilac and yellow were also popular. Black was considered
acceptable only for mourning prior to the second decade of the
century. Short gloves of York tan or kid were worn when driving,
riding or walking out of doors, while silk gloves were chosen for
visiting and other ladylike occupations. For evening, no lady was
thought attired à la mode without a pair of long gloves of
white kid. Ribbons or glove strings were used from the 1780s to tie
the longer glove above the elbow, or the more affluent might choose a
diamond buckle. After the Battle of Waterloo, as attitudes changed
towards revealed flesh, gloves became almost arm length. In cold or
inclement weather, whilst lacking the required degree of elegance,
many a lady resorted to woollen gloves or mittens and for those in
more straitened circumstances, cotton made an economical alternative
to silk.
An alternative
to gloves was a muff. Made from sable or ermine for winter wear,
swansdown or feathers for warmer weather, a muff was a cylindrically
shaped accessory for warming the hands. They were also made of other
types of fur, cloth or sealskin; those for winter could be as much as
two feet long. Carried by both sexes but mainly used by women, they
were frequently matched to the edging of a pelisse or tippet. They
could be used in place of a reticule to hold (or secrete) such items
as a handkerchief, some pin money or a letter.
Another
essential ‒ and fashionable ‒ adjunct to a lady's outdoor
wardrobe was the parasol. Like chinoiserie furniture, bamboo
and painted wallpapers, it originated in China and it became de
rigueur for a lady to carry a parasol to protect her complexion
when taking the air. These first parasols were made from silk in a
variety of pastel hues which could then be matched with a gown,
pelisse or reticule. Ladies held an unfurled parasol by its handle,
whereas a gentleman would hold an umbrella (invariably green) in the
centre. There were two types of parasol generally to be seen ‒ the
'pagoda' style and the fan or 'marquise'. The former was particularly
fashionable. It had tasteful curves when open, the fabric extended on
a frame of bamboo, cane or even the revolutionary steel sticks of
telescopic design, and was frequently embellished with a knotted
fringe. The 'marquise' style parasol was more reminiscent of a modern
umbrella, being shaped like a fan, but the central pole was hinged,
enabling the holder to position it vertically, either to display the
decoration on its panels or as a screen. It was usually fashioned
from either paper leaf or fabric. In May 1813, La Belle Assemblée
featured a fashion plate of a walking dress, where the lady pictured
carried a 'Johnston' parasol, which resembled a flattened circus top
with little peaks and dips and was decorated with a fringe. Made of
sky-blue silk, it had '...very recently made its appearance and is
already a general favourite.'
Fans
Surprisingly,
perhaps, to a modern viewpoint, fans had a variety of uses and were
considered an essential part of a lady's evening attire. Aside from
the practical use of relieving the owner during a ball or assembly
which was over-subscribed and stuffy, a fan could be used to portray
political messages, hidden signals to a lover, show to advantage a
pair of pretty eyes or the owner's sophistication and taste, and
disguise a naughty smile. Some were modest, simply painted with
famous works, maps, botanical drawings or psalms; others were richly
ornamented.
Fans
were fashioned from a range of materials. Leaves were made from
paper, silk, lace, chicken skin or lace and generally hand painted.
The sticks could be of bone, metal or lacquered wood, but the more
prized ones were made from mother-of-pearl, tortoiseshell or ivory,
the latter carved with intricate motifs. Vernis
Martin
fans, created by the brothers Martin in France using a varnishing
(vernis)
technique were particularly sought after, as were those by Angelica
Kauffman, an artist much revered in the eighteenth century who died
in 1807. The folding fan with many sticks, which is familiar still
today, were also in great demand. These brisé
fans were often most beautifully embellished, even though they had
become reduced in size in the first years of the nineteenth century
due to the increased popularity of the reticule. Having been used to
celebrate victories by Nelson and no doubt Wellington to boot (sorry,
could not resist), plus issue good wishes to King George III on his
recovery from illness, those that pictured neoclassical motifs and
scenes from the continental Grand Tour became much favoured. They
were works of art in miniature, measuring, in the main, between 6-10
inches and opening out to about 120 degrees. From around 1808,
'cockade' fans became all the rage, since they opened into a complete
circle. Some even contained a spy glass in the middle! From about
1817, crape fans came into vogue, featuring delicate embroidery of
spangled silver.
Young ladies
were taught the deportment of the fan so that they should hold and
use them to the best advantage, thereby accentuating the grace and
refinement of their hands.
The
language of the fan
Touch
right cheek ~ Yes
Touch
left cheek ~ No
Fan
slowly ~ I
am married
Fan
quickly ~ I
am engaged
Open
and shut ~ You
are cruel
Presented
shut ~ Do
you love me?
Presented
with handle to lips ~ Kiss
me
Placed
to left ear ~ I
wish to get rid of you
Hide
eyes behind ~ I
love you
Closely
examining fan ~ I
like you
Fanning
the left hand ~ Do
not flirt with that woman
Best wishes, Heather